After enjoying the first part of our summer Southwest Colorado trip in Cortez and Durango, my friends Jamie, Yoli, and I continued to the second part: exploring Hovenweep National Monument, the former mining community of Rico, and the small, beautiful town of Ridgway. After our one night stay in Durango, we departed the Strater Hotel the following morning. Before we left, I made sure to inscribe a brief message in the aptly named Room Journal. A notebook in which guests describe their experiences at the Stater and overall travels, I enjoyed reading others’ accounts of their journeys passing through southwestern CO. 🙂
A bright blue day, we headed back east on Highway 160, passing through Cortez again. We then headed north on Highway 491, the land wide and open: if it weren’t for the Abajos to the east and the San Juan Mountains to the west, you’d think you were in the Great Plains. Jamie helped navigate as we made our way to Hovenweep National Monument, a park that “protects six prehistoric, Puebloan-era villages spread over a twenty-mile expanse of mesa tops and canyons along the Utah-Colorado border,” as described on nationalparks.org.
Indeed, Hovenweep really is in the middle of nowhere. From Highway 491, it is all too easy to miss the turn for Road BB, which winds west for several miles in near isolation. We then turned southwest onto Co. Road 10, all the while looking for the turnoff to the park, but we missed it and had crossed over into Utah without knowing it. Pulling off to the side, we reassessed our location, backtracked a few miles, and finally found the turnoff, CR 268 A. The Visitor Center, just inside the Utah border, swung into view, and you know a park is truly remote when you observe just 2-3 other vehicles in the lot. Grabbing water, hats, and sunscreen, we stepped out into the glaring sunlight.
Several ruins are situated in Little Ruin Canyon, just outside the visitor center. A 1.6 mile path loops around the ruins, which consists of several walls, foundations, and towers. The most impressive ruin I found to be Hovenweep Castle, a sturdy edifice which does resemble a castle.
Views are stunning, as Sleeping Ute Mountain dominates the southern horizon, puffy clouds meandering across the skies. Approaching the park, the very top of Ship Rock (not pictured), located just over the border in New Mexico, is visible as well. As we walked along in the heat, I marveled at the silence of our surroundings: no cars, no hum of civilization. The entire area was serene and somewhat lonely; a stark contrast from when Hovenweep was a bustling agricultural community “[o]nce home to over 2,500 people” more than seven hundred years ago, according to nps.org.
We only saw five or so other folks during our walk, which was refreshing. As much as I love Mesa Verde, the park is certainly touristy: people and hustle-bustle everywhere. If you are wanting to observe and enjoy Ancestral Puebloan ruins in solitude, then I highly recommend visiting Hovenweep. And the area we visited is just one section of the park: there is more to explore and see on both sides of the Colorado-Utah border.
Walking at a leisurely pace, we completed the loop in about a half hour or so. I honestly wished we could’ve stayed longer: the isolation of the area, the ruins looming around, was so calming and peaceful. Yoli and Jamie: thank you ladies for recommending we visit this place!
Departing Hovenweep, we headed back to Cortez, so Yoli could pick up her car where she’d parked it at Stone Turtle Cabins, where we’d stayed the first night of our trip. After I filled up my car and Yoli picked up her dogs, we headed north on Highway 145. Our destination was the tiny, former mining town of Rico. I was feeling sleepy from the heat, so Jamie was kind in driving for me. Cruising away from the desert and into the San Juans, the landscape of Highway 145 is utterly beautiful. Pinyon and juniper give way to cottonwoods and pines, as the road steadily climbs into the mountains.
After an hour or so of driving, Rico pulled into view, nestled in a narrow mountain valley. A silver mining camp in the past, the town was founded in 1879. Old storefronts and masoned buildings line the main street, and we parked along the road. Jamie and I ambled along the main road and the adjoining dirt side streets; Yoli arrived several minutes later and joined our walk. The sun blazed down, though it was noticeably cooler, the elevation being 8,825 ft . With a population of 266, Rico today is much “sleepier” than it was during its mining heyday: in 1892 the town’s population was 5,000. As I suspect, the 1893 Silver Crash “ended the bonanza times , though mining [in Rico] continued sporadically into the next century,” writes Philip Varney in his book Ghost Towns of Colorado.
We observed several impressive brick buildings, all from the late 19th century. Some have been clearly restored and are in use, while other buildings are abandoned and locked up. For me, a girl who grew up “ghost towning” and fascinated with all things Victorian, Rico is a dream. It was Jamie’s suggestion we visit this lovely little town, so many thanks my friend!
We continued on Highway 145 , before turning onto Highway 62 toward Ridgway. Just when I thought the views could not be more spectacular, I was wrong. We were now further up in the San Juans, hands down Colorado’s most striking mountains: red in color, jagged, and isolated. At one point, we slowed to a near stop as a herd of sheep grazed adjacent to the road. After driving more than an hour, we then began dropping down toward Ridgway.
If you love John Wayne, then you’re aware that the town (pop. 973) and environs served as filming locations for the 1969 classic True Grit. The town park and one boardwalk are featured in the film. Though we didn’t have the time to take a True Grit tour of the town, we passed by the True Grit café (whenever I’m in the area next I’ll stop by for a bite to eat). Walking around, the tiny town was abuzz with tourists and plenty of Jeepsters; I was all too happy to pull up alongside various Jeeps. Last year, I passed through Ridgway briefly on my way to hike Blue Lakes: if you love hiking, I highly recommended this trail. The San Juans do not disappoint.
After giving Yoli a hug, it was time to head back to Grand Junction. Heading north on Highway 550, the mountains receded and the desert emerged once again. The temperature warmed up again as we dropped in elevation. Jamie and I arrived back in town around 7:45 PM. After a bite to eat, we went for a walk, and observed a stunning Western Slope sunset: a fitting conclusion to our trip.
Southwest Colorado is spectacular: from jagged mountains to arid canyons to lush farm fields, this region is unlike any other in the Centennial State. For outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs, and those obsessed with the American West, I cannot recommend this place enough. I am so grateful for embarking on this memorable summertime adventure with my friends! Jamie and Yoli, a big THANK YOU to both of you: from great live music to staying at unique places, you ladies made this trip not only lots of fun, but possible in the first place. I look to forward to future adventures with ya’ll! 🙂 Until next time,
~LMC
