Last month I went on another hiking adventure! Grand Teton National Park, no less…
The trip took place the weekend of July 21-22, with the same wonderful hiking group, Hike with Purpose. This getaway consisted of 11 ladies: Jamie, Yoli, Shanin, Sabrina, Val, Trish, Cate, Sam, Leslie, Wanda and I. We all departed from Grand Junction the morning of the 20th. Our destination was Driggs, Idaho, just west of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. I love looong drives in wide open spaces, and I was especially enthused for this trek as I had never been through northwestern CO or northeastern UT. Our three car caravan consisted of Jamie, Shanin and I as drivers. Before we left, I presented each hiker with a homemade goody bag, consisting of chapstick, energy goos and energy stroopwafels (they’re just as great for hiking as they are for running). 🙂
We began the journey via Highway 139, which cuts through the Book Cliffs and winds it way up and over Douglas Pass, elevation 8,268 ft. I’ve always had the itch to drive this area, and it was beautiful. As with the Blue Lakes trip (Weekend Adventure: Floating the CO River & Hiking Blue Lakes), we ladies kept in contact via walkie talkies. After passing through the tiny towns of Rangely and Dinosaur, we crossed into Utah. Right outside the town of Jensen, we made a very quick stop at Dinosaur National Monument, my first ever visit. The sun scorching down onto the dry plateaus and nearby desert cliffs, we did a brisk walk near the Visitor Center. Shanin is familiar with the park and pointed out some petroglyphs and fossils.
After about an hour, we hit the road. We passed through Vernal, where signs and dinosaur statues proclaimed the area “Dinosaur Country.” Winding north on Highway 191, we passed through Flaming Gorge Recreation Area, then entered Wyoming. It’s funny, but literally right after crossing the border, the land looked like, well, Wyoming. Long, barren sagebrush plateaus—and it was windy. We stopped in Rock Springs for lunch, then continued on 191. And let me tell you, there is absolutely nothing for miles around. Just more sagebrush. The landscape is lonely, and that’s why I love it. It’s reassuring to know there is still so much open space, where pioneer history abounds. Several historical markers along the road marked out Oregon Trail wagon ruts, and being a history nut, I really wanted to stop and walk along the old earthen grooves. But that will be an adventure for another day…
From Pinedale onward, forests and foothills began replacing the brush flats. The road now followed the Snake River, and the surrounding forest was extremely healthy. Overhead I observed a bald eagle soaring above the water. Before we knew it, we were driving through Jackson and then up and over Teton Pass: 10% grade, the steepest pass I’ve ever driven.
Crossing the state line, Idaho was as I remembered it: wide open valleys, the vistas so big the sky feels like it’s going to swallow you up. Driggs, population 1,736, is a cute little town situated in Teton Valley. The vacation home we were staying at is just a mile outside town: we had finally arrived. Spacious and built just a few years ago, the house was a perfect home away from home.
Hike #1: Darby Canyon Wind Caves
After a long day on the road (nearly 12 hours given our stops), we all went to bed early. The next morning we rose early to hike to Darby Wind Cave in Darby Canyon, just a few miles east of the house, on the Wyoming side. After a short drive into the foothills, we began our steady ascent up into the mountains.
The sky was gray, and raining off and on. Fortunately it wasn’t cold, but we soon got tired of constantly taking our jackets on and off. The forest was lush, no pine beetle kill in sight. Despite the damp conditions, we were in high spirits.
Situated as we were in a long, narrow canyon/ alpine valley, we wondered when the Wind Cave would finally make an appearance. When it did, we were all stunned just how tall the mouth of the cave appeared from a distance.
Eventually the trail turned south, crossing a meadow before ascending steeply to the cave. A dozen or so other hikers were near or in the cave. The photo below is a good indication of high the entrance is:
Water was flowing from the cave, and with all the rain, the approach to the entrance was a little slick. Watching our steps, a few of us made our way up and into the cave.
Once in the Wind Cave, I was awed how the ceiling soared above us, creating strange echoes. Strangest of all, the water seemingly vanished, hidden beneath the vast pile of loose rocks on the floor.
We only went a few yards in, though the Wind Cave continues further into the mountain, connecting to a series of Ice Caves. It is highly advised that only experienced spelunkers explore the deeper reaches of the cave, as there are steep portions and sheer drop offs. Turning around, the view from the mouth provided a different perspective of the alpine valley we had just hiked.
After 10 minutes or so, we gingerly began our way down from the cave. I never slipped on the wet rocks, not once on this trip, thanks to my Salomon Speedcross 4 trail running shoes. With heavy duty lugs and speed laces, these are the shoes that got me up and down Mosquito Pass for the Leadville Heavy Half, and up to Blue Lakes. They are hands down my first choice footwear for trail running and hiking, therefore I wore them on this trip. Being an avid runner and hiker, I am such a shoe nerd. 🙂
Once out, we rejoined the others, and we all then stopped at a nearby waterfall for snack time.
We then began our descent to the trailhead. The clouds remained, but the rain had stopped. Passing through the meadow once more, I stopped to take this pic:
Flash goes where I go! This is a custom horse hair memorial bracelet made from his tail hair. I’m trying to make a habit of taking pics with this memento at different places I visit. Wearing this piece brings me strength and comfort.
By midafternoon, we were all back at the trailhead. Total hiked: 6 miles, with 1,800 ft. elevation gain. With plenty of the day still left, we returned to the house for a rest. Later that evening, Jamie, Sabrina, Val, Cate, Yoli, and I went to Grand Teton Brewery Company in Victor, just a few miles south of Driggs. With the sun setting over the valley, we relaxed outside on the brewery’s spacious lawn. Hiking Day #1 was perfect!
Hike #2: Two Ocean and Emma Matilda Lakes (Inside Loop)
The next day we hiked within Grand Teton National Park proper. We drove up and over the pass back into Jackson, then back onto Highway 191. Now we finally observed the true view of the peaks:
Pictures are nice, but they still don’t do the place justice. The real view is quite spectacular. Even with wildfire smoke creating a haze, the peaks just jump out at you, with no foothills impeding the view. When I was seven I visited the Tetons for just a few hours, with my folks and grandparents. But with this day’s hike I would finally explore more of the park.
This day we split into two groups. I opted to hike the Inside Loop near Two Ocean and Emma Matilda Lakes. The other ladies opted to hike Hermitage Point Trail, adjacent to Jackson Lake, about 5 miles west of us. Jamie and I drove our group to the Two Ocean Lake Trailhead, at the lake’s southeast corner. The two long, natural lakes are each about three miles in length, separated by a few miles. Essentially the route we traversed is a large triangle directly in the area between the two lakes. From the trail head we took a trail headed south to Emma Matilda, then a route westward above the lake’s northern shore. It was from this area one could really see the peaks again.
The majority of the loop is single track, with most of the routes winding through thick forest. The undergrowth is so dense that the trails seem overgrown; the entire trip you are brushing up against, or crashing through, vegetation. We all made sure to spray (read: douse) ourselves with bug repellant. While I hate mosquitoes (they LOVE me), I was more concerned about ticks. Insects harassed us the whole hike, especially the latter half. Mosquitoes and gnats orbited our heads, creating a constant whining symphony.
After being out in the open for a bit, we descended back into the forest. From here we turned northward. This portion of the trail consists of lots of up and down. From this area you could observe Two Ocean Lake again.
It was a relief once we finally reached the clearing of Grand View Point after more climbing. And what a view point it is.
At 7,586 ft., this point affords a commanding view of the valley and Tetons. The body of water in the foreground is the much larger Jackson Lake, whereabouts Shanin, Sam, Leslie, and Wanda were hiking. With such a sight, it was only fitting to stop here for lunch (and selfies).
After food and plenty of pics, we continued back into the woods. The trail wended north for a bit more before settling due east all the way back to the trail head.
The western end of Two Ocean Lake emerged, and we followed along the water’s southern shore. It was this portion where the insects are relentless!
At this point we’d been hiking for more than a few hours, the first sensations of “hangry” setting in (not a typo!) For the whole of the hike, we encountered very few other hikers. The most people we saw was at Grand View Point, about a dozen or so folks. Otherwise, our trek felt very isolated, especially in the near impenetrable forests. Such isolation felt both tranquil and eerie at the same time. Bears are very a common sight in this area; we didn’t see any, though that doesn’t mean the bears didn’t possibly observe us humans from some vantage point (rather unsettling). During the return to the trailhead, as I was leading the group, I heard a sudden thrashing sound just yards away from us. I stopped, and all the chatter in our group immediately ceased. I did not detect any other human noises nearby. All of us alert, we started up again. That was the only strange occurrence for the whole of the hike. After hiking nearly 10 miles with a total elevation gain of 1,175 ft., it was time to return to Jackson. Heading back south on the highway, we stopped for these quick pics:
Back in town we stopped at Liberty Burger, a craft burger place. We sat on the balcony, overlooking the street, observing summer time in full swing: plenty of tourists, RVs, hikers, bikers, etc. I opted for a delicious ahi tuna burger. I was not disappointed.
Afterward dinner we explored the town. We stopped by one of the four famous Antler Arches at Town Square.
We then shopped for a bit, and I made sure to purchase a t-shirt. Sabrina and I checked out the Pendleton Store: drool. Now I really, really want to decorate everything with their southwestern design items. After swinging by at Moose’s for ice cream, we headed back to Driggs. Hiking Group #2 finished up their adventure later in the day, after hiking 10.5 miles total. They afterwards ate at Lotus Organic, right by Liberty Burger. Here is a picture of their view while hiking:
Can’t beat the Tetons! That reflection in the water is too good to be true. After two long, adventurous days of hiking, we all headed back to CO early the next day. I didn’t want to leave just yet; I wanted to keep exploring! All of us had been hoping to see some wildlife, but no luck (I did observe pronghorn while driving north of Rock Springs). Val, however, did see a moose while I was driving up Teton Pass on our way home (jealous!) With no stops other than for refueling, we were back in Grand Junction by mid-afternoon. After such a long day of driving, I needed to stretch my legs. So, later that evening Jamie and I went for a nice walk. The sun had just set and the Book Cliffs were a warm pink: always a thrilling sight. The next morning I ran a section of the Tabeguache Trail, just outside Colorado National Monument. I both ran and mountain biked these trails plenty of times in college, but never once in the morning. It was already pretty toasty when I started around 9:15 am, but it was a lot of fun!
Later that afternoon Yoli and I had lunch at Café Sol on Main Street. If you’re a foodie I cannot highly recommend this place enough. You could hate salad but this place will change your mind. Their homemade kombucha is amazing too. Talk about an amazing few days filled with adventure, friends, and food!
Grand Teton National Park is magical. You don’t need to be a nature lover or hiking nut to appreciate the beauty of the place. I’m extremely grateful to you ladies for not only making this trip one to remember, but possible in the first place. I am so lucky to know and have incredible adventures with y’all! We certainly packed in a lot in just a few days, both in Grand Junction and the Tetons. I’m already looking forward to our next adventure, whenever that will be…
~LMC
LMC would like to say a big THANK YOU to Jamie for granting the author permission to feature her photos on this blog. 😀